Some Answers to Typical Questions
About Service Panel Problems and Upgrades
How do I know if the problem is the panel or just a bad breaker?
Quick Answer: If one circuit is acting up, the breaker or the wiring on that circuit is the likely cause. If several circuits are affected, or you see heat, burning smells, or damage, the panel itself is the likelier problem.
More Detail:
Signs it’s likely a single breaker:
- One breaker trips repeatedly or won’t stay reset
- The breaker feels loose or doesn’t “click” firmly
- Only one area of the home is affected
Signs it’s likely the panel:
- Multiple circuits flicker, lose power, or behave strangely at once
- Scorch marks, melted plastic, a burning smell, or buzzing or crackling sounds
- A panel cover that’s hot to the touch
- Rust or moisture inside the panel, which is common in Florida’s humid and coastal climate
- Breakers that don’t trip during an obvious overload
- A known problem brand, such as Zinsco or Federal Pacific
Please don’t remove the panel cover yourself. Live parts inside can cause serious injury. If you notice heat, burning odors, or visible damage, shut off the main breaker if you can do so safely and call us right away. Otherwise, we’ll test the breaker, the connections, and the panel’s condition and tell you plainly whether you need a simple repair or a replacement.
Can you just replace the breakers in an old panel instead of the whole thing?
Quick Answer: Sometimes, but only if the panel is in good condition and the correct, listed breakers are available for it. For certain older or recalled panels, swapping breakers doesn’t solve the underlying problem.
More Detail:
Replacing a single worn breaker in a sound, well-maintained panel is routine. It becomes a poor choice when:
- The panel is a known problem brand. With Zinsco and Federal Pacific panels, the concern is often how the breakers connect to the bus, so a new breaker doesn’t remove the risk. Replacement breakers can also be hard to find, and some on the market are not properly listed for that panel.
- The bus bar or connections are damaged. Heat, corrosion, and loose connections inside the panel can’t be fixed by changing a breaker.
- The panel is full or undersized. If you’re adding an EV charger, heat pump, or other large load, a new breaker doesn’t create more capacity.
- Only a mismatched breaker is available. Breakers must be listed for the specific panel. Using the wrong type violates code and can create a hazard.
We’ll inspect the panel and give you both options when a repair is reasonable. If replacement is the safer long-term answer, we’ll explain why.
How do I know if my home has enough capacity for an EV charger, heat pump, or hot tub?
Quick Answer: Start with the main breaker rating on your panel (often 100, 150, or 200 amps), but the real answer comes from a load calculation, because what matters is how much power your home actually uses.
More Detail:
Each of these is a large 240-volt load:
- EV charger: A typical Level 2 charger needs a dedicated 40 to 50 amp circuit, and faster units need more.
- Heat pump or A/C replacement: Needs its own dedicated circuit sized to the equipment, and it adds to a load that’s already significant in Florida.
- Hot tub: Usually needs a dedicated 50 to 60 amp GFCI-protected circuit.
A home with a 100-amp panel, an existing A/C, an electric range, a dryer, and a water heater may have little room left. A newer home with a 200-amp service and a lighter load may handle one of these without any panel work.
We’ll look at your panel, review your existing loads, and run a load calculation. Then we’ll tell you whether you can simply add a circuit, whether a load management device is an option, or whether a service upgrade makes sense.
What is a load calculation, and why do you do one?
Quick Answer: A load calculation is an engineering-style assessment of how much electrical demand your home can place on its service at once. We do one to make sure a new circuit, appliance, or panel is safe and meets code.
More Detail:
Following the National Electrical Code method, we account for your home’s square footage, lighting and general circuits, major appliances such as the A/C, range, dryer, and water heater, and any planned additions like an EV charger or hot tub. For existing homes, the code also allows alternatives, such as using your utility’s past usage data.
Why it matters:
- Safety: An overloaded service can overheat wiring and equipment.
- Code compliance: Permits and inspections often depend on it.
- Right-sizing: It prevents you from paying for a bigger upgrade than you need, or installing one that’s too small.
- Future planning: It shows how much room you have left for what you may add later.
You don’t need to do anything. We handle the calculation as part of your estimate or inspection.
What's the difference between a main panel and a subpanel, and when does a subpanel make sense?
Quick Answer: The main panel is where power enters your home from the utility and includes the main shutoff. A subpanel is a smaller panel fed from the main that distributes power to a specific area or group of circuits.
More Detail:
A subpanel makes sense when:
- Your main panel is full and there’s no room for more breakers
- You’re adding a detached garage, workshop, or home addition some distance from the main panel
- You’re powering pool equipment, an outdoor kitchen, or a guest house
- You want circuits grouped for convenience, such as shutting off a whole area from one location
One important point: a subpanel does not add capacity. It draws from your main service, so your overall limit stays the same. If the main service is already near its limit, a service upgrade may be the better fix, sometimes alongside a subpanel. We’ll check this with a load calculation before recommending either.
Will a new panel lower my homeowners insurance premium, or help me keep coverage?
Quick Answer: A new panel may help you get or keep coverage, especially in an older home. It doesn’t automatically reduce your premium, since that varies by insurer.
More Detail:
In Florida, many insurers require a four-point inspection on older homes, which reviews the electrical system along with the roof, plumbing, and HVAC. Some carriers decline or restrict coverage for homes with certain panels, such as Federal Pacific, Challenger, or Zinsco, and may also object to other outdated or damaged electrical equipment. Replacing a flagged panel can resolve a problem that would otherwise block a new policy or renewal.
Some insurers offer small credits for updates or for surge protection. Many don’t, so it’s worth asking.
What we recommend:
- Ask your agent which panel types and conditions your carrier accepts before you start.
- Keep your permit, inspection sign-off, and invoice. These make a strong record for your insurer or a future buyer.
- We can provide documentation, and a licensed electrician’s report, to support your four-point inspection.
We can’t promise a specific premium change, but we can help make sure your electrical system doesn’t stand in the way of coverage.
What is whole-home surge protection, and should I add it with a new panel?
Quick Answer: Whole-home surge protection is a device installed at your panel that helps shield your wiring and electronics from voltage spikes. Yes, we recommend adding one with a new panel, and current code generally requires it when a service panel is replaced.
More Detail:
Florida adopted the national code, NEC Section 230.67 requiring a surge protection device (SPD). Florida sees more lightning than almost anywhere in the country, and power surges also come from utility switching and large appliances cycling on and off. Surges can damage air conditioners, appliances, electronics, and pool equipment, sometimes all at once.
Why add it during a panel replacement:
- It’s most cost-effective. The panel is already open and being worked on, so installation is quick.
- Code: Surge protection is generally required on new or replaced dwelling service equipment under the National Electrical Code. We’ll follow the version adopted by your local jurisdiction.
- Broad coverage. It protects every circuit, including hardwired equipment you can’t plug a power strip into.
It’s not a guarantee against a direct lightning strike, so we also suggest plug-in surge protectors for sensitive electronics like computers and home theater equipment. The two work best together.
Koska Electric installs whole-home surge protection. See our Surge Protection Services page for more information.